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My 1966 Bellett 1500 sedan 
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Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 8:41 am
Posts: 58
Location: Tallinn, Estonia
Car(s): 1966 Bellett 1500 sedan
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Could anyone tell me please, what's the oil capacity for the engine, gearbox and differential? What type of oil should be used in differential?

I hope the bottom will be finished tomorrow, so by the end of the week I would like to hear the engine roar again.

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The only Bellett in Estonia


Wed Nov 29, 2017 8:59 pm
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Joined: Tue May 10, 2011 2:23 am
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Location: Melb.
Car(s): '72 Sport Bellett (imported 180912), had Belletts in past, 2 sed, 3 GT's. M/B A250 Sport, i30
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Bellett_EST wrote:
Could anyone tell me please, what's the oil capacity for the engine, gearbox and differential? What type of oil should be used in differential?

I hope the bottom will be finished tomorrow, so by the end of the week I would like to hear the engine roar again.

From a tear drop Owners Manaual


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'72 PR60 Sport
Wed Nov 29, 2017 9:59 pm
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Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 8:41 am
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Location: Tallinn, Estonia
Car(s): 1966 Bellett 1500 sedan
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Bottoms up, boys!

Finally finished with the bottom, saturday will be the day to finally bring the car down.

Image

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The only Bellett in Estonia


Thu Nov 30, 2017 7:43 pm
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Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 8:41 am
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Location: Tallinn, Estonia
Car(s): 1966 Bellett 1500 sedan
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Today was a good day.

Finally got the car back on the ground, filled with oil and coolant, and - running. A short drive round the garage gave a good lift for the motivation. It seems that Bellett is a good winter car, 15cm of wet snow didn't seem to bother.

I am really happy that the homemade exhaust system seems to work, the car is pretty quiet and the pipes didn't knock against the body.



The day wasn't perfect, somehow the turn signal switch stopped working. It does not lock in turning right position. Is there some kind of spring which should keep the switch in position?
I hope it's not too difficult to fix it.

Maybe it isn't impossible afterall, to get the car on the streets by christmas.

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The only Bellett in Estonia


Sat Dec 02, 2017 6:07 pm
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Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 1:03 pm
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Car(s): 1966 TEARDROP ...MANUAL ...
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Hi this is how it should look for the blinkers. Does it make sense cheers dave


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Mon Dec 04, 2017 2:26 am
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Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 8:41 am
Posts: 58
Location: Tallinn, Estonia
Car(s): 1966 Bellett 1500 sedan
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My turn signal switch seemed to repair itself overnight. But I should probably clean and lubricate it a bit.

Could anyone give ma lubrication chart for the chassis? It would make it a lot easier to find all the nipples.

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Mon Dec 04, 2017 7:41 am
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someone elses turn ....come on guys same old helpers all the time ....he needs help ....


Mon Dec 04, 2017 8:19 am
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Car(s): GU Patrol, Subaru Outback, 1968 bellett ratter, 1969 florian deluxe & 1976 Luv
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i dont have any charts but there are 2 grease nipples at the back of the car that are nearly hidden for the wheel bearings? some one will correct me im sure!

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Mon Dec 04, 2017 8:49 am
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Joined: Tue May 10, 2011 2:23 am
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Location: Melb.
Car(s): '72 Sport Bellett (imported 180912), had Belletts in past, 2 sed, 3 GT's. M/B A250 Sport, i30
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BULLITT wrote:
someone elses turn ....come on guys same old helpers all the time ....he needs help ....


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'72 PR60 Sport
Tue Dec 05, 2017 1:52 am
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Location: Melb.
Car(s): '72 Sport Bellett (imported 180912), had Belletts in past, 2 sed, 3 GT's. M/B A250 Sport, i30
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mrflibbles wrote:
i dont have any charts but there are 2 grease nipples at the back of the car that are nearly hidden for the wheel bearings? some one will correct me im sure!


yes thats right. A bit tricky to see unless you know they are there.

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Tue Dec 05, 2017 2:03 am
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Car(s): 1965 Wasp, 1966 Bellett, 1967 Bellett, 1969 Florian, 1973 Bellett GTR, 1976 Buick Opel by Isuzu, 1978 Gemini van
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Awesome work Glenn.

My Bellett indicators stopped staying clicked down on one car; now I just hold that side down when I'm turning right!

I got used to it!

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Tue Dec 12, 2017 11:13 am
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Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 8:41 am
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Location: Tallinn, Estonia
Car(s): 1966 Bellett 1500 sedan
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Thanks for help everybody!

But questions keep coming...

Finally got oil filter changed, and tried running the engine again... Valves seem to tick quite loud. Is it normal for that engine or should I adjust them? I don't have a spare valve cover gasket, so it's quite a risk to dismount the cover.
Any suggestions what to do and what not to do while adjusting the valves?


What does this lever under the air filter box do?

Image


Hopefully tomorrow I will get to the brakes and clutch, maybe even have a test run.

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Wed Dec 13, 2017 9:29 pm
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The lever under the air filter box simply unscrews anti clockwise to remove the air filter box from the top of the carburetor. There should also be 2 supports bolted with 2 bolts each support that will need undoing either at the filter box or where the struts bolt to the engine where there is 1 bolt each strut.

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Thu Dec 14, 2017 1:34 am
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Car(s): 1966 TEARDROP ...MANUAL ...
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Looks like this number 226 is the arm that releases the grip on the carny throat Cheers davo


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Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:33 am
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Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 8:41 am
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Location: Tallinn, Estonia
Car(s): 1966 Bellett 1500 sedan
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Thanks.

Interesting is, that when I tried to start the engine yesterday, It didn't start. But when I loosened that lever, It started instantly. At the same time, the airbox cover was off. I suppose it was just a coincidence then.

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Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:38 am
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Bellett_EST wrote:
Thanks.

Interesting is, that when I tried to start the engine yesterday, It didn't start. But when I loosened that lever, It started instantly. At the same time, the airbox cover was off. I suppose it was just a coincidence then.

You should have a earth cable from the negative terminal on the battery to item 169 in the engine picture. I cannot see it in your pic of the lever under the carburetor. If it is there tighten it up. Could be the reason why it would not start and you played with the lever and it started.
You can make a tappet cover gasket from sheet gasket material. Trace around the outside of the cover with a marking pencil. Measure the width of the old gasket and mark that width on the inside of the traced mark. Cut the inner mark first then the outer. If you cannot get the correct thickness for the gasket. Make 2 and glue them together. Or. Glue the sheets together and then trace and cut. Depends on how confident you are in making the gasket. You also may have a problem in getting a sheet material long enough. Go diagonally across the sheet.

Dave.

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Thu Dec 14, 2017 12:48 pm
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Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 8:41 am
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Location: Tallinn, Estonia
Car(s): 1966 Bellett 1500 sedan
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Today wasn't as shiny as I hoped it would be.
Tried to get the brakes, but there were many surprises.
Rear right brake cylinder had been made blind by someone. I suppose it had been leaking and instead of repairing (no surprise, because Bellett parts are not available in Estonia) it had been made blind.
I removed the blind from cylinder, tried, it seemed to work, but then the brake pipe broke when getting it back on.

As my brake pipe repair tool for 3/16'' pipe was also broken, I couldn't do anything about it today.

The cylinder itself was quite rusty inside. I suppose I would need a repair kit, but how to get the piston out?


I think I'll try to see if the cylinder works as it is, if it doesn't, I'll try to get a whole cylinder from Finland. Or is the rear cylinder with same diameter as the front? I have one spare front repair kit...

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Thu Dec 14, 2017 8:57 pm
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The brakes


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Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:34 pm
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Rear


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Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:36 pm
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Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 8:41 am
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Location: Tallinn, Estonia
Car(s): 1966 Bellett 1500 sedan
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Yes, thanks, I already had that chart. At first, I thought the rear brake piston wouldn't come out at all, but on the chart I saw that it should. I thing air compressor should help to get it out.

Main question is, would the front rubber ring (how is it called?) fit on the rear piston? Are the diameters same?

I guess I'll see on sunday if it works or not.

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Thu Dec 14, 2017 9:42 pm
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