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motor /gearbox 
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Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 1:03 pm
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Car(s): 1966 TEARDROP ...MANUAL ...
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after much ??? ghbdjhi44@@#%^&&& I got the motor out to repair the towers little bit there ....is that a plate weld job???? also the inside of the bell housing had all this oil is that normal ??? would that have been from the motor its not like clutch dust its greasy oily ..I am trying to explain in musos terms .... cheers davo also took the heater too bits and thanks for the advice it was pretty gunked up and full of leaves will have to flush and repaint the heater ..


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Tue Sep 23, 2014 12:56 am
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Joined: Tue May 10, 2011 2:23 am
Posts: 2816
Location: Melb.
Car(s): '72 Sport Bellett (imported 180912), M/B AMG A35, i30, had Belletts in past, 2 sed, 3 GT's.
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BULLITT wrote:
after much ??? ghbdjhi44@@#%^&&& I got the motor out to repair the towers little bit there ....is that a plate weld job???? also the inside of the bell housing had all this oil is that normal ??? would that have been from the motor its not like clutch dust its greasy oily ..I am trying to explain in musos terms .... cheers davo also took the heater too bits and thanks for the advice it was pretty gunked up and full of leaves will have to flush and repaint the heater ..


Hi Dave

towers need some major work as it appears the inside metal is also rusted through. Only by removing the outer metal will you know precisely. Plating over the top won't stop the internal rust..... depends on how bad it is and how far you want to go or how much you want to pay to have it done perhaps. Don't cut it out now though, I would wait for somebody local to have a closer look at it for a definate opinion..

I would remove the heater core and get a radiator place to test and repair if required.

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Tue Sep 23, 2014 1:05 am
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Joined: Fri Mar 20, 2009 8:23 am
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The oil is from the engine davo. Most likely from the rear main seal. There is no seal in the front of the gearbox.
The towers cut the rust out. There is a overlap of three panels that sweat. It would be safe to say you will be close to the bolt holes in the upper control arms before you get good metal. Mine are replaced with 1 piece of 3mm plate. Just check the bottom of the rails also. :oops:


Tue Sep 23, 2014 4:08 am
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Joined: Tue May 10, 2011 2:23 am
Posts: 2816
Location: Melb.
Car(s): '72 Sport Bellett (imported 180912), M/B AMG A35, i30, had Belletts in past, 2 sed, 3 GT's.
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Dave, that rust inside the hole, is in the chassis rail. (Make sure the internals are vacuumed out of crap which will be in there, before actual welding repairs are done. It will need to be cut out to good metal also as in previous posts. ] Once all is opened up, I squirt lots of fish oil in that area and the rail....... some can go down the hole where the shocker fits. More can go inside the rail and getting it froward and back as much as possible. (A 'Kero' gun is handy to do this with a compressor) You should be able to see it dripping out the bottom of the chassis rail after a while also. You need to be careful though that it does not contaminate the area where plates will be welded in........
I don't know what others do but I fish oil all these sorts of repairs. Where it drips out, make sure those holes are wide enough so that when the fish oil dries, any ingress of water can get out still.

I also seam seal (the brushable stuff, mask off to avoid getting it messy looking) the sides of the tower (pictured) as its a place where water can get in, in the first place.


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Tue Sep 23, 2014 6:56 am
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Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 1:03 pm
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Car(s): 1966 TEARDROP ...MANUAL ...
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thanks glenn and greg ...point me in the right direction ...I will go there cheers davo


Tue Sep 23, 2014 7:15 am
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