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1967/68 Bellett sedan For Sale 
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Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2008 12:17 pm
Posts: 2323
Location: Rye Park, N.S.W.
Car(s): Doris, Aunty Mary, Shrek, Jimmy; GT, Wasp, Florian & Sed unrestos; 65 Elf; worn 02 Forester; 07 Santa Fe CRD, Sigma.
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Hey there agian Ted.
The switch is in the mail, its free. The Ted Freeman favour bank account is well in the black.

(An example for readers - In 1976 I had the experience of my '65 sedan having the crossmember under the motor begin to tear away where the left lower wishbone bolts on. I got dad's welder and tacked some cocky poop on it, then drove it to Bellett spares and repairs. Ted replaced the crossmember for me, which would involve undoing the engine mounts, jacking the motor up, compressing and removing the springs, the lower wishbones, swaybar and steering rack. Then supply the crossmember from another car that would undergo the same process, and put it all back together.
For this Ted charged $20. He appreciated that I was at school and of limited means, and just wanted me croozin again.)

A possibility with your motor is that they bought a new block or short motor. They come with no engine number stamped so you can stamp your original number in. I know this because I have a NOS G161 block with a blank space. They may have just fitted the bits they had to the 5 bearing block. The 66 1/2 rear plate has both starter motor holes which would allow for this, as does the the first all synchro box.
I dont think the breather should go directly to the intake though, it might scavenge oil from the crankcase. They either route to the air cleaner or open air, via a separator.
The tin sump should be ok, the 5 bearing supplement in the workshop manual says it was changed to allow a better seal to reduce leaks.
Determining factory colour might be helped by the paint code sticker, as long as the bonnet is original! I think looking behind the firewall padding might be a way. Its been a thorough resto if they painted behind there.

Cheers, Matt.

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Life is far too short not to fill it with what you love. - Jackie French.[/size]


Wed Nov 02, 2016 12:00 pm
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Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2011 1:01 pm
Posts: 368
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Matt, What you are saying about the engine could be fact, it says it has Gemini Pistons and was rebuilt in 1997 (Could number less blocks have been available then, G161?), and it is definitely the early full synchro box with both starter options, it has the low early starter motor in it "which gives a little trouble, clicking but not engaging all the time, brushes?", (I don't recall if the late flywheel ring gear is placed different or not).

I have a couple of late starters, but as I say is the ring gear different and it is also a big job changing over the mounting plate, at this stage I may pull the starter, clean and see what the brushes are like.

A lot of old memories coming back, but a lot lost in my feeble old brain as well, I am trying to kick start the old memory tract.

The ID sticker is gone from the bonnet, so no help there.

Looks like a bit of detective work needed yet, the rust is our major hurdle at this stage (it appears the car was in Sydney "Bondi Beach area" from 1974-1999 or thereabouts, before it went to WA), a bit more in the way of rust than I would have liked, but nothing structural that we can see.

So we have picked up a little more work than we thought was needed, but hopefully still worth it, just need to get the QLD Rego on it first up.

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Ted Freeman


Thu Nov 03, 2016 1:08 am
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Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2008 12:17 pm
Posts: 2323
Location: Rye Park, N.S.W.
Car(s): Doris, Aunty Mary, Shrek, Jimmy; GT, Wasp, Florian & Sed unrestos; 65 Elf; worn 02 Forester; 07 Santa Fe CRD, Sigma.
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Ted, I don't know how old the block I have is, it came with my Florian. It may have been in stock at Aunty Mary's dealership since back in the day.
I can't remember if the ring gears are different either. I better check some spare motors in the shed. The early starter motors have never given me any trouble. Shrek's is a bit grindy, but still works every time. I have plenty of spares if you need one. First though, I would try just shining up all the contacts on the leads and nuts on the starter relay and starter motor. This has fixed problems for me in the past. The clicking could be the starter relay actuating, but the current doesn't get to the starter.
As you work on it, the hands will just go where they need to. Thats what dappened for me about 17 years ago!
Most cars have some rust these days, the good part is black is easy to match and touch up.
Have fun, and good luck with the inspection.
Cheers, Matt.

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Life is far too short not to fill it with what you love. - Jackie French.[/size]


Thu Nov 03, 2016 11:37 am
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Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2011 1:01 pm
Posts: 368
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Farmer, received the ignition switch with thanks, do you happen to have a car to put around it, if so, drop it in the mail, same address.

As we get into this car, it is becoming quite unbelievable as to what has been done to it in the name of repairs.

Having spent a good part of its life in Sydney (Bondi area), rust is rearing its ugly head everywhere, we have committed ourselves to resurrecting it as best we can, there will be some metal replacement where necessary.

We have the rear half stripped of paint along with the roof (which has what I will label 'sunspot' rust).

It will be interesting to see how we go as it will be a real learning curve to takes us onto the 63 Teardrop and Falcon.

Although kindly given to us, we have put in considerable transport costs, so we need to come up with a drive-able result ASAP.

Can't let the five 'new' tires go to waste.

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Ted Freeman


Tue Nov 08, 2016 5:47 am
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