Re: 1967/68 Bellett sedan For Sale
Posted: Wed Nov 02, 2016 12:00 pm
Hey there agian Ted.
The switch is in the mail, its free. The Ted Freeman favour bank account is well in the black.
(An example for readers - In 1976 I had the experience of my '65 sedan having the crossmember under the motor begin to tear away where the left lower wishbone bolts on. I got dad's welder and tacked some cocky poop on it, then drove it to Bellett spares and repairs. Ted replaced the crossmember for me, which would involve undoing the engine mounts, jacking the motor up, compressing and removing the springs, the lower wishbones, swaybar and steering rack. Then supply the crossmember from another car that would undergo the same process, and put it all back together.
For this Ted charged $20. He appreciated that I was at school and of limited means, and just wanted me croozin again.)
A possibility with your motor is that they bought a new block or short motor. They come with no engine number stamped so you can stamp your original number in. I know this because I have a NOS G161 block with a blank space. They may have just fitted the bits they had to the 5 bearing block. The 66 1/2 rear plate has both starter motor holes which would allow for this, as does the the first all synchro box.
I dont think the breather should go directly to the intake though, it might scavenge oil from the crankcase. They either route to the air cleaner or open air, via a separator.
The tin sump should be ok, the 5 bearing supplement in the workshop manual says it was changed to allow a better seal to reduce leaks.
Determining factory colour might be helped by the paint code sticker, as long as the bonnet is original! I think looking behind the firewall padding might be a way. Its been a thorough resto if they painted behind there.
Cheers, Matt.
The switch is in the mail, its free. The Ted Freeman favour bank account is well in the black.
(An example for readers - In 1976 I had the experience of my '65 sedan having the crossmember under the motor begin to tear away where the left lower wishbone bolts on. I got dad's welder and tacked some cocky poop on it, then drove it to Bellett spares and repairs. Ted replaced the crossmember for me, which would involve undoing the engine mounts, jacking the motor up, compressing and removing the springs, the lower wishbones, swaybar and steering rack. Then supply the crossmember from another car that would undergo the same process, and put it all back together.
For this Ted charged $20. He appreciated that I was at school and of limited means, and just wanted me croozin again.)
A possibility with your motor is that they bought a new block or short motor. They come with no engine number stamped so you can stamp your original number in. I know this because I have a NOS G161 block with a blank space. They may have just fitted the bits they had to the 5 bearing block. The 66 1/2 rear plate has both starter motor holes which would allow for this, as does the the first all synchro box.
I dont think the breather should go directly to the intake though, it might scavenge oil from the crankcase. They either route to the air cleaner or open air, via a separator.
The tin sump should be ok, the 5 bearing supplement in the workshop manual says it was changed to allow a better seal to reduce leaks.
Determining factory colour might be helped by the paint code sticker, as long as the bonnet is original! I think looking behind the firewall padding might be a way. Its been a thorough resto if they painted behind there.
Cheers, Matt.