Sport" Bellett sedan PICTURES

[Glenn]

Met a bloke at the euora show and shine . He imports a lot of cars from Japan . He refuses to put cars in a container only does roll on roll off . No damage and a lot cheeper . Said he has never had a problem . Gricey

Thats OK if the car drives and stops but non-runners like many cars i found or worse still, no brakes, roll-on/off is a problem. Mine was not runing and no brakes ! 2nd car even worse, plus I had a pile of doors too.

glenn

[Stickman]

Hope you guys don't mind all these photo updates....



Are you kidding?

We thrive on them!

[Glenn]

OK, back from the Nats and all fired up......

At the nats, on visiting Gary's huge shed and stockpile of bits, Gary parted with a much better boot lid than the damaged one on my Sport so I immediately got to work, rubbing it back. (lucky I had the Ute with us to bring it back) Very minor rust in the corners only, to be fixed.

[oz_toffa]

thats great, Glenn.

will sure save some time with the repairs.

keep us up to date

cheers


OZ

[Glenn]

Still fired up after the Nats........ Moving on to the LH sill, the worst of the rust hopefully. Leaving the boot lid for now so I can paint all panels at same time later.

The LH sill has been previously 'repaired' the famous Japanese way. Knock it in and put some thin metal or tape over, then bog it.

I used a spot weld drill and drilled all the spot welds then cut off the sill. I plan to weld it to the remaining sill along the top edge where it rolls over from horizontal to vertical. The replacement metal has been made to suit that method. After removing the sill panel I looked up inside it and see some more tape covering a hole in the horizontal part of the sill so that needs to be fixed too. Rest seems sound enough.

Picture shows only part of sill removed and not the final top cut line. Part of the inner was rusted out so will be replaced also. I also modify the inner sill when i replace the outer. There seems to be no place for water to escape so I indent the inner sill in a few places before I fit the new outer sill section. I paint all the inner sections too after treating with rust killer. (grey area at front) I use stuff called "RS1", now very hard to get, but excellent stuff. Once all is done, I usually squirt lots of Fish Oil in there too.

you can see the 'water line' in the inner sill area....... no wonder they rust with that much water in them.

[Glenn]

here's just some of the rusty crap that came out of the sill and box section for rear jacking point. I will squirt some fish oil into that area also before the sill goes on.

[bembokabellettbloke]

glad things are going ahead.....enthusiastically!

[Glenn]

LH sill now welded in, just some finish grinding etc to do and a skim of filler over the weld area.

Will then move to RH sill. Hope its not so bad as I only have about 900mm section of new panel to use this time.

Trying to get car ready for the Japanese Car Show in November.

[Glenn]

swinging back to the 'spare' car and the transit damage. I got a couple of shots of it now. Keep in mind the front of the car was totally undamaged before shipping. OK, its a bit rusty but no damage !

The RH guard has similar damage too.

I can't prove it, but suspect it happend here in Vic when unloading the container.

Anybody have a spare bonnet? Long one is fine.

[1968GT]

having the Sport ready for the JAPANESE CAR SHOW GIVES YOU A TARGET!!

Have a think about the CARnivale' in January, we can billet you and Milena up, the SPORT would be a great attraction for CARnivale'.
ICCA will hopefully have a complete street block to display our cars.

[Glenn]

would love to come Dave, but i don't think i can manage it this time.

[Glenn]

Left and right sills now fitted. Some 'bog' work to do over the joins mostly now to do. I can tell you working on sills without a hoist is a right pain....
Also repaired 2 small pin holes on rh rear wheel arch.

[Glenn]

it's funny how one thing leads to another.... the sills are now finished apart from primer and paint. The LH guard I removed shows signs of rust in the section where it bolts to the A pillar so cut out 3 sections and replaced with new metal. Then the bottom rear part where it fits up to the sill area looked a bit dodgy too. So off that came and a new piece made and welded in. I think thats about it.

LH door had a few rust pinholes near the bottom. Looking inside, found lots of broken glass blocking up the bottom vents. Obviously a window had been broken in the past and most just left inside the door.

Need to get back and fit the new exhaust pipe section next. Then remove the brakes and have them all stainless sleeved......and ? The Japanese Car show is getting mighty close. (25th)

[oz_toffa]

nice work marking up and making the guard repair there, Glenn.

she will be as good as new by the time you finish the work. lucky you only work part-time


OZ

[BULLITT]

hey glen you should make a few of those bottom gaurd bits left and right or at least make a template what would you cherge for them ? they look great and my little car will one day need those ...i have done a jewish repair on it at the moment....

[Glenn]

nice work marking up and making the guard repair there, Glenn.

she will be as good as new by the time you finish the work. lucky you only work part-time


OZ

LOL ! ... part time on the 'real' job but full time on this one !

[Glenn]

hey glen you should make a few of those bottom gaurd bits left and right or at least make a template what would you cherge for them ? they look great and my little car will one day need those ...i have done a jewish repair on it at the moment....

It's a little difficult to make more. Every car will vary in what needs replacement. My biggest problem though is that I have very little steel sheet to do it. I just use odds and sods i have about here. I am using 0.9 or 1mm steel. I am a bit of a toolaholic and have a shrinker-stretcher to pull in the curve section on the front lip where it rolls over. Without a shrinker, a series of cuts could be made in the folded over area to allow it to be curved. That said, most was simply done by working in the overall curve and starting the front lip by pulling (hammering) the metal over a 2" piece of steel bar. To re-create the rear folded edge, a strip of metal was placed on the back and fusion welded along the edge with no filler rod. (Oxy welded)
I will look at a pattern though for them.

[Glenn]

getting there slowly. I had hoped to have all panels in paint by now as time is fast running out for the all Japanese Show on 25th Nov. Apart from panel and paint work, need to get the brakes working (master and slave cylinders out now being sleeved etc), finalise the fitting of the exhaust pipe that was crushed, get a RWC and Club permit. That assumes nothing else has a problem and RWC passes the slightly scratched windscreen.... probably not as they are dynamite on screens. sadly....I don't think i will make it.
But, all the panel work is done (both sills, LH door, bootlid, right rear wheel arch, rear section and bottom of both guards.) and all in 2 pak primer. Leave for a few days then rub back and top coat. Top coat will be acrylic though and i hope the paint shop came up with a good match. As is usual with painting, the preparation takes forever and then, when some primer is on, you can see a few bits you missed that are not quite right

One really anoying thing that happened.... when i removed the RH door, the 'captive' nut plate behind the door check strap/bracket, fell out and I assume, into the sill ! Now if i had have removed the door before I did the sill, I could have retreived it ! Maybe a magnetised pick up tool will work, through the little round plate inside the sill?

By the way, the brake guy quoted me around $560 to re-co the front calipers. (includes s/s sleeving) For now, I hope they are ok, as not leaking. Rears were leaking on one side and there was no fluid in the rear master cyl.
Luckily, the car came with all new re-co parts for the cylinders. Even new pistons for the dual master.

[Glenn]

Now appears I need to have an engineer inspection of the car, like PR95 had to. (any import made after 1969) Have approached an approved engineer who quotes me $350 for the report. As far as I know, mainly fitting of of lap sash seat belts in front, not sure about rear, and changing tail-lights to flash amber not red.
Brakes are all sleeved and reco'ed (except fronts) ready to pick up.

[PR95]

Bugger, I suppose it's not too bad, I only paid half that for mine to be inspected, and he came to me. I think my guy was semi retired and was a bit of pocket money for him, I did ask ask another fellow first, and he was going to play merry hell, gave me fifty things that may need doing before he looked at it, my guy was fairly easy. Just hope you don't have to put the mirrors on the door. The other mods were fairly simple, and stuff I wanted to do anyway for safety, including rear indiacators, as I would hate for someone to run up the ass of it. Now have 4 tailight and 5 brake lights. The only other difficult part is clear lenses for front park lights.
Will be interesting to see what he wants...........

Geoff.