bellett.net

Hi Y'All. Not so much a new topic. As i recall it's in this section somewhere but can't find the detail off hand. I seem to recall the 4 uni joints in the Bellett, front and rear of tailshaft and both rear half axles are Holden HZ/HR/HQ ones which fit? can someone throw up the detail on this please? It's about time I looked at changing these parts as they have a bit of slop after 50 years. Not too bad, but enough to work up a vibrating hum through the drive train when decelerating from any significant speed. Any info appreciated.

Cheers B.

GToo

Here's some links

http://bellett.net/forums/viewtopic.php ... nts#p27300

http://bellett.net/forums/viewtopic.php ... ints#p9844

Cheers Flying

Thanks flying. Not far off the mark. Had a look at some the other day, $18 each from sprint auto. But wasn't sure.

Numbers are K5GB150 or K5L1 for non-greasable. K5LGB80R for greasable.
Prefer non-greasable as is easier to fit and you don't break the nipple off the back
axles. Some of the joints are supplied with a grease nipple that's too long and you
can't buy any shorter ones to suit.
Bellett joints are 23.81 mm. x 62 mm external circlip. Holden are 25.4 mm. x 43.64 mm internal circlip.
Repco,CBC,Bursons or any bearing shop.

Dave.

Thanks for part numbers Dave. Tail shaft is easy, just drop it out. But the Axles have me a bit puzzled. Any hints ??

Yeah, I find one side of the original axel unis impossible to grease. I guess sealed ones will last my life time.

B.

Most of the times I've had the whole diff out. There are only 3 mount points to undo. You will need a small garage jack to suport it. On the front is the crossmember which supports the pinion. On each end is a rubber mount which is bolted to the floor by 2 x 8mm bolts. Or. The bottom side of the mount is a single 10mm stud. Access to this is by a 14mm socket on a 3" short extension. Usually this is the nut I remove. On the rear is a single long bolt. From memory is about.16mm diameter. Support the diff. by the jack and you may have to lever/lower the jack to get it out. Have found that the rubber mount bush in the diff sort of "grows" to the mount bracket.
NOTE. All of the drive flanges have a shoulder at the opposite side of the uni joint. Have seen 2 different ways these have been assembled. The bolt inserted from the uni side with the spring washer under the head and the nut sits on shoulder and you tighten the bolt. The other way is the bolt is inserted from the back of the flange and the nut and washer on the uni side. You tighten the nut. I've found that the shoulder is hard up against the nut or bolt and if you try to undoo or tension it up it "rounds" the hex. You can put a spanner onto it but don't try to turn it.
On assembly lightly pre-grease the diff mount so it will slip in easily.
Another Note. The drive flanges may have "grown" together. A hard hit with a hammer on 1 side and a hammer on the other side to take the biff.
I usually jack the rear up and put the car on stands and secure the front wheels. This helps so when you remove the tailshaft you don't lose any oil out of the gearbox. Or. Just undo the tailshaft and push it aside out of the way.

Goodluck.

Dave

Thanks for all the info Dave. I've got as far as buying the parts, hope they are right or else I will be selling them fleabay. I say that because the part number apparently doesn't correspond with 6 cylinder Holden unis and are much smaller. I have been told they are for Triumph, Healy, Volvo, Cortina or the like. The ones I ended up with were Holden HQ and have a grease nipple on the end of one bearing cup which is easier to access for greasing and shouldn't interfere with anything on rotation.

The procedure sounds complicated. I will have the Bellett up on a hoist this weekend to do front sway bar rubbers. So I'll clean off the 50 year old crud and have a good look and get advice from good friend helping me.

Cheers B.

Well, new sway bar rubbers are in. What a difference firm rubber makes!! Thanks OZ Toffa for supplying the rubbers, you are a tenatious genius for pouring these moulds yourself!! Thanks to 2litre DOHC for giving up your good time and hoist space.

Apologies to CQGT. The numbers you have supplied are correct. Turns out Holden HQ unis are TOO BIG, so need to take them back for refund. As it turns out we gave the original ones a good greasing and will do for now. They appear to be in reasonable shape. But we have identified the vibro as free play inside the diff. There is a bit of play there but nothing I can't live with for now until it can be reconditioned in the future.

Cheers for all your helps. But remember HQ unis are TOO BIG!! Daves serial numbers should get you the right size if you are changing unis in GT Bellett.

B.

Holden ones don't fit. Knew this ages ago.
You need Rodeo / Jackaroo ones. The numbers Dave supplied are correct.
Easiest way to do the axles is either drop the diff or o pull the axles out just enuf to get them out.
Sway bar rubbers are only half of the problem. The way the bar itself is mounted is a bigger issue and to really make it work properly they have to be modified.

Thanks for confirming that PR91. I had the correct ones in my hand at the auto shop (and they were non greasable) but couldn't confirm them as correct without having one out of the car to match. Daves numbers definetely showed up as unis for Triumph, Volvo, Cortina etc. and as said are smaller than HQ/HR Holden.

Yes Brett, I remember your thread about the front mounting points of the sway bar and the mod you suggested. We didn't quite go that far, but the upper mount rubbers on the front were f#@$'d to say the least. A little Smith engeneering and we had some very new and firm nolithane bushes in there, which firmed things up as solid as a rock. More than ample for the street hooning I do in it. A vast improvement.

B.

Glenn

Greg uses hardy spicer part with the same part # K 5-gb150


Non greasable and lasts longer in the race car. He uses these as others snap.
He has some if urgent.
We can post some and you can replace them when yours arrive.

Thanks Liz
I have some on order already and pickup tomorrow .
I didn't get the full number from them but it's K5LGB8 with a few more characters tacked onto that.
brand I don't know .

glenn

I Just picked up Uni Joints

TOYO branded, made in Japan. P/N K5-LGB80R (Rodeo 2WD KB, KBD 20 series)

Cost $36.45 each from Bursons in Vic.

Can confirm these fit just fine. Thanks for the info.

glenn